Roll-Neck into a Draped Cowl

How I Modified a Roll-Neck into a Draped Cowl

I used Jalie’s Emilie sewing pattern for my sample for this tutorial on how I altered the Roll-Neck into a Draped Cowl. This pattern is a staple in my winter wardrobe, and I highly recommend it.

If you’ve never sewn using Jalie’s patterns, this free one; Emilie, is a great way to familiarize yourself with them. 

The Inspiration behind Changing the Roll-Neck into a Draped Cowl:

I really like the original collar, it keeps my neck warm without choking me. 

But my mind kept going back to a well-loved pullover that I sewed for myself in the 1970’s.  It had a roll-style collar that draped in flattering folds at the front and the center back seam came together into a long point.  This Emilie pattern inspired me to try to replicate that collar.

Here’s How I did it:

I used Jalie’s Emilie for my sample. This pattern is already staple in my winter wardrobe, and I highly recommend it.

If you’ve never sewn using Jalie’s patterns, this free one is a great way to familiarize yourself with them. https://jalie.com/products/emilie-square-roll-neck-top-free-sewing-pattern?_pos=1&_sid=c2765669b&_ss=r 

Use a piece of pattern paper that when folded is a few inches wider and longer than the original collar pattern piece.  Place the fold to the right.

Fold the collar pattern piece in half at the notch. 

• Turn it 90’ so that fold is at the right.
• Place it with the fold you just did, on the fold of the paper. Pin it into place.

• Along the fold, make a mark 3 inches above the original.
• Draw a line parallel to the left long side of the original pattern 2 inches away.
• Use a ruler to measure the length of the original neckline, then draw a line beginning at the bottom left edge of the original pattern, ending on that line you just drew. It will be on an angle, but MUST be the same measurement as the original!
• Meet the top of that diagonal line with the mark you made in step #2.
• Gently curve the center back seam as well as the neckline, as shown.

• Cut the folded paper to make your new pattern
• Unfold the paper to complete your pattern.
• Transfer the info onto it, including the mark indicating to place it on the fold.
• Cut the collar out on the fold as marked, with the fabric folded with right sides together.

• To sew your new collar, sew the center back seam to form a tube.

• Open out and refold with wrong sides together, matching the center back seam.

• Press lightly. That tube is your new cowl collar, ready to be sewn into your neck opening. (If your fabric is slippery, I suggest basting the neckline of your cowl with a zig-zag stitch within the seam allowance.
• I like to quarter-pin both the collar and the neckline, before sewing it into place.

Do you think you’ll try this?  Let me know in the comments, I’d love to hear from you.  

If you’re like many of my followers, you like a compact printable as a PDF, so here it is!  

How to Modify a Funnel Collar into a Draped Cowl

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