Racerback Cami Jalie 3245

My latest creation, Racerback Cami Jalie 3245, take two.

This Racerback Cami Jalie 3245 top is quick and easy to put together.  But, I have a confession to make, I’ve been overthinking every step of this cami.  I wanted it to be perfect. 

Sew,  it took forever. 

Sew,  I made two.

Jalie Cami and Raglan Tee

Added January 2020 for my Canadian readers, click here to buy this pattern from Amazon.ca

This chapter is Take One.

Lets discuss size and ease.  According to the chart on the back of the pattern, my measurements correspond to size “X”.  I went up one size and traced off size “Y”.  (wiggle room you know)

Then I compared the pattern pieces to my finished scarf collar top in size “BB”, and they were almost the same around the midsection.

It was quick to cut out, and to mark the notches.   My serger was used to sew the shoulders and the side seams.  I like the way the bust is given extra fabric by stretching the back to ease extra fullness into the front. 

Binding Tips

I use my rotary cutter to cut the strips for the neck and arm binding, much easier than using scissors on this slippery ITY.  Joining the ends was made easy by sewing over tissue paper. Easy to tear away.

Then quarter pinned, and followed the “Jalie Binding Method” by sewing the right side of the binding to the inside, then folding and rolling it around to the front to be top-stitched.  I’ve used this method successfully many times, so I attached all 3 strips.  

When it was time to top-stitch the folded edge to the front, the fabric fought me all the way.  The cut edge rolled to the right side and created a ripple underneath the top layer that I couldn’t steam out.    Maybe a light weight fusible knit interfacing would help.  I picked out all 3 binding strips WITHOUT MAKING ANY HOLES!!!!

Then I fused the interfacing strips to the wrong sides of all three strips.  And quarter-pinned before attaching just one armhole strip this time.

stabilized binding
quarter pinned binding

The interfacing made it too thick.  I picked it out.  And decided to sew it to the front first with right sides together, then fold it to the inside and top-stitch.  That worked, and I just trimmed off the extra seam allowance on the inside.  Whew!

 

The hem was finished by fusing the same lightweight knit interfacing, cut into one inch wide strips to the hem, then top-stitching with a twin needle.

stabilized curved hem
pinned hem
twin needle hem

Finally, it’s finished!

I pulled it on over my head, smoothed it out and took a peek in the mirror.  If this was a fairy tale the mirror would have cracked. 

It fit tighter than I like, and, being a racer-back style, my bra straps were showing and it was binding under the arms.  No, you may not see a photo.  I didn’t want the camera to break in horror.

The next version will be my next post.

Yvette Chilcott

I'm a mother of 3, stepmother of 3. My hubby and I share our home with 2 cats, and my hobbies, including my food experiments.

5 Responses

  1. This cami looks perfect!
    I want to machine knit it. Any advise on type of yarn, sizing?

  2. Great idea Petra! It definitely needs to drape, so a “hard-twist”, that steams soft would be a good choice. Do you have a knit-radar? If so, you could draw the pattern on the mylar, then just knit to shape.

  3. Lovely. Have you ever tried Presto Sheer as an interfacing? It is very sheer and can be utilized to stabilize even silk velvet. I love it and use it even when I do a rolled hem on cotton. It may eliminate some of the weight while still preventing the knit from rolling. Just a suggestion.

  4. Yvette your top looks beautiful!!!! I love the way it flows loosely… good choice for a summer top!!! love the colour…

    I took a note on the “presto sheer “as an interfacing… I have never heard of it…

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