Machine Satin-Stitch Applique on a Curvy Font

I used this Font

And I downloaded it here: 555 Outline Fonts – 1001 Free Fonts
https://www.1001freefonts.com/outline-fonts-3.phpI enlarged each letter at about 2 inches tall.

Satin-Stitch Applique:

Thread your sewing machine up with a decorative thread in the needle. Be sure that if your thread is a 40 weight or thicker, that you use an appropriate needle. Regular or bobbin thread in the bobbin. I don’t worry about the colour, just the value, light, dark or medium.

Select a satin stitch.

What exactly is a satin stitch, and is it the same as a zig-zag with a short stitch length? Not quite.
A zig zag stitch angle is consistent.
A satin stitch angles over, then stitches back straight like a lightning bolt, so the finished stitch is smooth and “satiny”.

On my machine (Husqvarna/viking Epic2) my zig zag won’t shorten below 2mm. That’s because I have a very adjustable satin stitch available. I personally like a 3mm width and length of 0.8  Be sure to test your stitch on scraps of the same fabric as your project.

A Specialty Sewing Machine Foot

I LOVE my open-toe foot! It allows me to see every stitch and exactly where the needle is going.  Part # for Husqvarna/viking Epic2 is 920564096.  It’s a variation of their “B” foot with an undercut area on the bottom so it glides over decorative stitching with ease.

Stabilizer?

For the most part, YES! Satin stitch and the natural tension of your sewing machine causes the fabric under the stitching to “tunnel”. I prefer a “tear-away” stabilizer.  The only exceptions would be if your base fabric was stable like a heavy twill or denim. ALWAYS test your stitching.

Whew, lots of information there, now let’s applique.

This font is curvy. Smooth satin-stitching around curves takes practice. There are 2 parts to a curve, the “inner” and the “outer”. The outer curve should look smooth with no gaps or spaces. The stitch should be just off the edge of your applique fabric so that none shows.
The distance between the stitches on the outer curve need to be consistent, whereas the stitches on the inner curve need to be closer together.

To do that, ALWAYS stop with your needle down on the outer curve. Raise your presser foot and pivot just slightly. Stitch left to the inner curve then back to the right. Again, with your needle down, pivot and stitch. Depending on how loose or tight your curve is, you might have to do this on every stitch until you come back to a straight area.

This diagram shows the outer curve on the left and the inner curve on the right. The method is the same, stopping when the needle is at the outer curve and pivoting just slightly.

It takes practice.

If your sewing machine has a built-in sensor system where you can set it for the stitching to stop with the needle in the “down” position and the presser foot raises just a bit, it makes machine applique a breeze.

I like to start stitching on a straight area, so that when I get back there it’s easy to line the stitching up.
The small inner areas of the letters are done the same way.

In conclusion; I’ll be demonstrating this as a part of an upcoming class, and thought I’d put this information in a separate document for you, my readers.  My class is next week, via Zoom and is a toiletry bag for Father’s Day with Satin Stitched Applique. 

If this is information that you’d like to add to your personal files, Here’s a 2-page downloadable PDF.

machine applique on curvy letters

See you soon, and Happy Victoria Day!