Jalie’s Rose 3881 Hacked into a Pull-on Tank-top

Hiya!  Hang around for a bit and let me show you about Jalie’s Rose 3881 hacked into a pull-on tank-top. This summer is a hot one, and I like loose, airy tops on hot days.  I picked up this linen look cotton/poly at a yard sale and have been itching to make something “cool”.

What was my Inspiration?

Some of the features I really like in Jalie’s Rose pattern include the flared shape, the bias finished armholes and the bust darts. Here’s another of my posts where I reviewed this pattern.

I kept this a very simple shape, omitting the collar and collar stand, the front pockets, 1 layer of the back yoke and the front opening.  To conserve fabric, I cut my lower back in 2 pieces and sewed a center back seam. 

I plan to wear this top over leggings, so need the back length to cover my butt, and the front long enough for modesty.  The high-low hem line appeals to me.

The armholes and the neckline are finished with the bias binding according to the instructions.  To determine the length of the piece for the neckline, I measured the pattern pieces at the sewing line and cut the strip 10% shorter so it pulled in a bit which helped shape the curve.

Here’s what I did: (using size “W”)

1. Put a piece of thin paper over the original front, having 1 straight edge along the center from line on the pattern. (I use medical paper and weights to hold it in place.)  Mark the center front to place it on the fold.
2. Make a mark along the front line, 5 inches below the original front neck.
3. Make another mark 1 inch in from the neck along the shoulder line.
4. Connect those marks into a gentle curve for a new neckline.
5. Measure down 20 inches from the new front neck and mark.
6. Make another mark and then draw a line perpendicular to the center front, 6 inches below that.
7. Extend the side seam line to the 6-inch mark, and then draw a gentle curve as shown in red.
8. To add length to the back, measure the side seam of the front, omitting the dart, and extend the back side seam to the same length. Be sure to have a 90-degree angle at center back hem.
9. Because I’m omitting the collar and collar band, I found that the back yoke didn’t fit smoothly over my older round shoulders, so I took in a small ½ inch dart in the actual pattern as shown here. This removes an inch from the upper back neckline making the fit much smoother.   I also widened the neckline by 1 inch.  (making the shoulders the same, front and back.)

Sewing it up:

1. Make the pleat, but inverted, at the top of the lower back, by folding the back with RIGHT sides together (instead of wrong sides as in the directions). Stitch the pleat 1 ¼ inches parallel to the fold, then open it out and press it so the center back fold (or seam as in my case) is centered over the stitching.  (I did it this way because I have a seam at the center back of the lower piece.)
2. With right sides together, attach the single yoke to the top of the lower back. Press the seam allowance toward the yoke and top-stitch.
3. Stitch the darts in the fronts and press them downward.
4. Join the shoulders and side seams, pressing seam allowances to the back.
5. Finish the armholes and the neckline as directed using that longer bias piece you cut earlier.
6. To finish the curved hem, I used my serger first to finish the fabric. When I got to the “outer curves” I cranked my differential to gather, resetting it to normal in the straight areas and the inner curves.  This made the hem much easier to press up into place, and I was able to top-stitch it from the right side with ease.
7. Then, you’re done! Give your new top a bit of pressing to set the hem as well as the neck and armhole finish, and slip on Jalie’s Rose 3881 hacked into a pull-on tank-top!

If you’d like a 2-page printable PDF, you can buy it for $1.50 by clicking here.