Converting Stitch and Row Gauge in Knitting
“Knitting THAT sweater in YOUR Yarn”
Learn about Converting Stitch and Row Gauge
How many times have you found the perfect sweater pattern in a magazine or pattern book, and then have been unable to match the stitch and/or row gauge? That doesn’t mean you can’t knit it. It’s time to learn about converting stitch and row gauge! Master the “Conversion Formula”, and with an accurate tension swatch in the yarn you wish to use you can knit any pattern.
When determining the gauge of your swatch, use the same factor as the written pattern, i.e. stitches/rows to 1″, stitches/rows to 4″, stitches/rows per cm, or stitches/rows to 10 cm.
A simple hand held calculator will be very helpful to calculate two necessary “Conversion Formulas”. You will use one or both of these to re-figure your pattern.
The Stitch Converter
Take your stitch gauge, divide it by their stitch gauge and the answer is the Stitch Convertor. Use up to 2 decimal points. For example; say you are getting 29.5 stitches to 4 inches and the pattern calls for 28 stitches for 4 inches. Divide yours (29.5) by theirs (28) and the answer (stitch convertor) is 1.0535714. We’ll round that to 1.05 (2 decimal points is enough)
How do we use it?
Simple.
If the pattern calls for 140 stitches, multiply their # (140) by the stitch convertor (1.05) and the answer is 147. Because the pattern uses an even number, we’ll round up to the next even number, 148. So you’ll cast on 148 stitches.
The Row Converter
Take your row gauge, divide it by their row gauge and the answer is the Row Convertor. It is used the same way as the Stitch Convertor.
A Few Other Points
Shaping is not so simple, but by using common sense, and a few basic rules, you’ll be fine.
Just remember, round necklines are shaped by “most first, then less, less and less”.
V neckline shaping is a smooth line, with about 1 inch unshaped before the top of the neck.
Sleeves are narrow at the bottom and shaped rather evenly up the length. The shaping of a set in sleeve is more complicated, but use your Stitch and Row conversions to work the math.
Click on the words below for a printable PDF
stitch and row converting
So, does it make sense? Will you use it? Please let me know……
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Thank you for the very timely information on stitch gauge. I have been suggesting at a famous store that it would be an idea to carry patterns for the gorgeous wool on their shelves. I just bought some more yesterday. Now all I need is some patterns. I
love the wool.
My pleasure 🙂
Wow!!! like Fran said, thank you for the time you have taken in putting this information together!!! I don’t own a knitting machine , have shared this information… as it can come handy in the future…
I have a pattern that says 26 m = 10cm on 3.5 needles. Doesn’t tell me how many rows??
Hi Jacky, that sounds like a hand knitting pattern and I’m guessing it means 26 stitches to 10cm? The actual instructions will tell you how many cm to knit for each step, i.e. ribbing, knit 8cm (as an example). Use your swatch to determine exactly the number of rows. I hope this helps.
Hi, I’m trying to work out my gauge. Pattern says to use 4.00mm needles for the tension at 22 stitches to 10cm. Mine comes to 23 stitches to 10cm. Going by the Pattern I cast on 135 stitches, but using your calculator I have to cast on 142 stitches. Does this sound right
My apologies Sue, I responded to your email instead of replying here. Thanks for asking, and yes, for others reading your question, you’re right.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I knew this could be done and now I can use my dozens of hk patterns. You’ve explained in simple terms and all for free. Thank you for your time and effort.
you are most welcome Angie, now an entire new world of knitting has opened up for you. Wishing you all the best!
Thank you so much! I only seem to have yarn that doesn’t match the proper guage but I’m so happy to have the guesswork taken out of it now. I would still knit and just adjust and hope out worked out but that was for smaller projects. Now I’m knitting a sweater and happy that it won’t be completely misshapen. : )
That happens to me all the time, I can match the stitches OR the rows, never both. Glad to have helped 🙂
Thank you so much, really useful and clearly explained.
good morning Sara, I’m glad you found the info useful, happy knitting!
Does this work also if my gauage is 23 to 4″ and my pattern is 27 ? Because your example is a number that is higher than the pattern and mine is lower
Yes, it will. Your number will be less than 1. Always swatch to check though!
Oops, I should have said that your “stitch converter” number will be less than one.
Hello Yvette, I just happened to find your post. Very helpful! Thanks from Australia!