An Easy Welt Pocket for Jalie’s Renee 4018

You asked, and I did it; wrote a tutorial for an easy welt pocket for Jalie’s Renee, that incredible new pant pattern that fits like a glove. Here’s my original review of this pattern. This tutorial is based on my size “V” (40 inch hip). For children you’ll want to decrease the dimensions. This is my 3rd attempt at adding a pocket. I NEED a pocket in my pants and capris! My first attempt was similar, but vertical near the side seam. It looked ok until I put the pants on, then it gaped. A lot. My second attempt was a simple “in the side-seam pocket”. It also gaped, AND it was lumpy. Before I put anything into it.

This single welt pocket is stabilized with a lightweight fusible knit interfacing, and only uses one piece of fabric. The welt and the pocket lining are all one piece.

Note about the interfacing; I changed from non-woven to knit interfacing. After washing and wearing my Renee pants, the non-woven interfacing separated from the fabric and shredded. My next pair was made with “Fusi-knit” fusible knit interfacing and are holding up perfectly.

I advise making a sample with scrap fabric before trying this on your good fabric! It’s good to practice!

Here’s how I did it:

Construct the pant front by joining the side panel to the main piece, pressing and top-stitching.
Cut a piece of main fabric 12 inches (30 cm) long and 7 inches (18 cm) wide with the most stretch in the 7 inch direction.

Cut a piece of fusible knit interfacing 7 inches (18 cm) by 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) (I use “Fusi-knit” and highly recommend it) NOTE about knit interfacings; they stretch in one direction. The stretch goes longways as in the diagram.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of whatever end of the pocket fabric you want to become the welt.
Measure in 3/4 inch from the top and draw a horizontal line on the interfacing marking the center. Draw 2 more lines, one on either side of the center line, 1/4 inch away.
Measure in 1/2 inch from each side and draw vertical lines to form a rectangle with a line down the middle.

To place the pocket: lay the completed front that you want to add the pocket to with the good side facing up. Measure down and mark 3 inches along the both the side seam and the front seam. Lay a ruler or straight edge from mark to mark. Place the pocket piece with the interfaced side up along the edge of the ruler, with the side-seam edge 1/2 inch from the edge of the front fabric. Pin into place.

Begin and end at the vertical line, sew through both layers on the top and the bottom line, reinforcing at the beginning and the end. Do not sew along the short ends.

Carefully cut along the center line, starting and stopping 1/2 inch from the vertical line. (I used my rotary cutter) Cut the ends toward the corners like a “Y”. I used a pair of fine, very sharp scissors.
Pull the pocket to the wrong side through the opening you just made. Use your fingers to smooth it out to a rectangular window and press it well.

Working on the inside, at what will be the top of your pocket, under stitch the seam allowance to the pocket fabric. This step will help to keep the top of the pocket from rolling.

Press the pocket toward the waist, then fold it down along the top of the interfacing to make a half-inch welt. Press it well.

Turn it over so the front of the pants is facing up, and stitch in the ditch along the bottom of the welt. (shown in yellow)

On the inside, bring the bottom edge of the pocket fabric up with good sides facing, so it’s even with the top. Stitch directly on the original line of stitching through the seam allowance to form the top of the pocket. (shown in yellow) Be careful that you don’t catch the welt.

With the front of the pants facing up, fold back one side to expose the little triangles at the side of the pocket opening. Sew them down to the pocket. (shown in yellow). Repeat on the other side of the pocket.